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BASTAKIA QUARTER This small, densely concentrated neighbourhood of narrow lanes and wind-towered residences was once home to wealthy Persian traders, mainly from Bastak in southern Iran, lending the neighbourhood its name, Bastakia. These merchants, dealing mostly in pearls and textiles, settled in Dubai because of its tax- free trading and accessible creek. Most of the houses here date back to the early I900s and the prosperous merchants constructed their homes from coral and lime- stone, a step up from the more modest building materials offered by the ubiquitous palm tree. This is one of the main reasons that the buildings in Bastakia have lasted - they were far more durable and more valuable than the traditional barasti hut made from palm fronds. While there is some debate as to the origin of the wind-tower con?cept, theress no doubting that tow?ers and courtyards were common features of Iranian coastal build?ings. The towers take the hot air upwards and out of the building and also pick up breezes and direct them downwards. The Bastakia has now mostly been restored and the quarter is starting to develop a lovely arty feel. Courtyard buildings you can visit include , a wonderfully restored house that is a hotel, gallery and cafe, and the traditionally decorated Bastakiah ights res?taurant. As you wander through the narrow, peaceful lanes you can easily imagine the life of the merchant residents at the turn of the 20th century. It would be difficult to find a more fitting a symbol ofDubai today tha:: the audacious and iconic Burj Al Arab (Arabian Tower). The worlds: tallest dedicated hotel, the sail-shaped building tops out at an impres sive 321m and was the boldest and most ambitious of the mF?iad 1990s projects undertaken b:?Crown Prince Sheikh Moham?med. The ambitious Sheikh kne that a world-class city - which he was determined to make Dubai ?needed an iconic symbol like the Eiffel Tower. The process of constructim: began on the worldss only sseven stars (actually rated five-star lux) hotel in 1994, with pillars 0: the offshore island plunging 40rr: into the seabed. It wasnst unti: 1999 that the hotel opened i ?doors to its first awestruck gues ?who marvelled at the white wovec glass-fibre screen sail facade and then were bewildered by the sAra?bian fantasys interior. Itss as though the imagination that fuelled the design of the ex?traordinary exterior of the hotel had run out of puff after filling the dhow (traditional wooden boat sail, leaving the buildingss beauty decidedly skin deep. The interior seeks to impress with its sheer extravagance, having left taste ex hausted at the door and, while everything that glitters here is gold, colours that match gold are only randomly in evidence. Perplexingly, the interio: designer has stated that there was no specific colour scheme - perhaps another world first for Dubai right there! As for the rooms, suffice i: to say you half expect an Arabian Joan Collins to make an entrance via the internal staircase. The cost of construction of the hotel has never been made pub?lic, but it clearly was money well spent as Sheikh Mohammed could then happily tick off siconic sym?bols on his formidable to-do list for Dubai. DEIRA SPICE SOUQ The air of the atmospheric old alleys of the Spice Souq on the Deira We?terfront is heady with the aromas of spices, herbs, nuts, pulses, dried fruit;: and chillies. Sacks overflow with frankincense and oud (fragrant ground cardamom, cumin, paprika and saffron, cinnamon sticks ani cloves, as well as the local favour?ites, which are sumach and zaata?(thyme). Inside the shops, shelves are lined with orange- and rose?water; henna powders; incensis burners and charcoal and other products, both ancient ani modern, from pumice stones and traditional wooden tooth cleaners, to hair colours and cake mixes. The souqss wooden archways and wind towers are restored, but this market, established in the 1830s, would have an antique quality ifit weren-: for the odd shop selling plastic kitchenware and toys. Focus instead on this spice sellers, taking time to stop and smell the bouquet of aromas. By far the most popular buy, with local ladies and tourists alike, is frankincense. The best quality crystals come from the harvested gum resin of trees in the Dhofar area of Oman. Frankincense can be bought by weight although these days spice sellers prepack?age the crystals in kits that include a small clay or decorative incense burner and coal. Ask for a demonstration on how to prepare the incense. Emiratis burn incense on a daily basis, often passing it around afte:?meals, and at weddings and parties, so that the smoke perfumes guests clothes. Tiny boxes of saffron, rose-water and henna are also great buy~ and make exotic souvenirs. BUR DUBAI SOUQ Established in the 1830s, Dubaiss souqs have long had a reputation as the best in Arabia, and with good reason. Like the Deira Gold and Spice Souqs, Bur Dubai Souq is a bustling bazaar with great bargaining opportunities, interesting architecture and lots of atmosphere. In reality the ssouqs encapsulates several shopping areas. The covered souq by the waterside, with its re?stored wind towers, houses small shops with Russian signage in their windows selling vibrant textiles, Arabian santiquess and collectables, sequinned slippers and curly-toed Aladdin shoes from Afghanistan and Pakistan; this souq also proffers tacky souvenirs, cheap T-shirts and clothes, and Indian sweet shops. Along with the alley between the Sikh Gurudaba and Hindu Shri Nathje Jayate temples (p25), which has shops selling religious paraphernalia, bindis, garlands of flowers and incense, this area is the most atmospheric. Less aesthetically pleasing, yet still intriguing, are the surrounding lanes and streets, which contain more textile and sari shops, haberdashers and tailors. AI-Fahidi St, also consid ered to be part of the souq, is lined with shops selling jewellery, shoes, stationery, souvenirs, electronics ?and luggage to take it all home! The souq is best explored at night when itss crowded and lively, and in winter for cool breezes. Take time in between bargaining to talk to the salesmen. They hail from everywhere, from Mumbai to Islamabad, Isfahan to Kiev. The shoppers are just as varied, from tourists haggling over suitcases to local ladies looking for the latest textiles.
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